Pothos Plant Care: The Easiest Trailing Houseplant

Looking for a hanging houseplant that is attractive, forgiving, and simple to care for? Pothos is an excellent choice. With its long trailing vines and lush foliage, it can bring a tropical feel to an indoor space without requiring complicated maintenance.

I began my horticultural career in the interior landscaping industry, where we installed thousands of Pothos plants in offices, hotel lobbies, banks, airports, shopping malls, and other commercial spaces. Their adaptable nature and attractive trailing growth have made them a long-standing favorite.

Pothos is among the most widely grown houseplants around the world. It is inexpensive, readily available, and easy to maintain. A healthy trailing plant in a 6-inch pot with long vines can often be purchased for less than $20. As the stems continue to grow, they create a lush, cascading appearance that adds a tropical character to a room.

Lucy, who previously worked here, began her houseplant journey with a Golden Pothos. It was the first indoor plant she purchased, and it grew extremely well. That success gave her the confidence to experiment with additional houseplants. If you are just beginning to grow plants indoors, Pothos is a great species to start with and can quickly help you gain confidence in plant care.

How to Use Pothos

Because Pothos naturally produces trailing stems, it is especially well suited to hanging baskets. My Golden Pothos grows in a ceramic container while remaining inside its original nursery pot. I keep it on top of a bookcase, where its vines cascade down two sides and eventually stretch across the floor.

My Neon Pothos is positioned on a floating corner shelf behind my ZZ Plant, while my Pothos NJoy grows on a long table alongside seven other tabletop plants.

Pothos can also be planted around the base of a larger floor plant. When grown in a large container, it works nicely as an underplanting and can conceal an unattractive nursery pot. This makes it a useful alternative to moss for covering the base of a larger plant.

There are many other ways to display Pothos. They can be trained upward around hoops, supported on tall pieces of wood or bark, grown on trellises, attached to walls, guided along moss poles, or incorporated into dish gardens and living walls.

Size

Pothos plants are commonly sold in 4-, 6-, 8-, and 10-inch nursery pots. Plants in 6- to 10-inch containers often come with removable hangers that can be detached if you prefer to grow the plant as a tabletop or floor specimen.

I purchased my Marble Queen Pothos in a 6-inch pot, and its trailing stems were approximately one foot long at the time.

Growth Rate

Pothos generally grow at a moderate to fast pace indoors, particularly during the warmer part of the year. Growth slows considerably during winter, and depending on the conditions, you may see very little new growth during this period.

Plants kept in lower-light environments also tend to grow more slowly. Providing brighter indirect light can help maintain stronger and more vigorous growth.

How Long Does a Pothos Grow?

In their native habitats, Pothos climb trees and can eventually reach lengths of around 60 feet. This vigorous climbing habit contributes to their reputation as invasive plants in suitable outdoor environments and explains why they can be difficult to eradicate. Pothos is also known by the common name Devil’s Ivy.

Fortunately, this extreme growth is generally not something indoor growers need to worry about.

For comparison, here are the current lengths of several of my Pothos plants, all of which receive tip pruning once or twice each year. My Golden Pothos has reached 11 feet, my Neon Pothos is approximately 8 feet long, and my Pothos NJoy is around 2.5 feet long.

Pothos Varieties

There are numerous Pothos varieties available. Some that I have encountered include Golden Pothos, Marble Queen Pothos, Jade Pothos, Neon Pothos, Pothos NJoy, Glacier Pothos, Jessenia Pothos, Blue Pothos, and Silver or Satin Pothos.

Silver Pothos belongs to a different genus, but its common name has caused it to be grouped with Pothos in everyday plant terminology.

Growers in different regions of the United States, especially Florida, California, Texas, and Hawaii, produce different Pothos varieties, so availability can vary depending on where you live. Golden Pothos, Marble Queen Pothos, and Jade Pothos are among the varieties I encounter most frequently. Jade Pothos is distinguished by its entirely green leaves, while the other varieties may display various forms of variegation. All of these types have characteristic heart-shaped foliage.

The care information in this guide applies broadly to the different Pothos varieties. However, keep in mind that certain cultivars require brighter conditions to maintain their particular leaf coloration and variegation.

Pothos Plant Care and Growing Guide

Pothos Light Requirements

Pothos can tolerate a range of lighting conditions, from low light to high light, but moderate light or bright indirect light is generally ideal.

They can survive in low-light locations, although growth will be considerably slower. It is important to remember that low light does not mean complete darkness. Golden Pothos and other variegated varieties may gradually lose their variegation when grown in insufficient light, eventually becoming predominantly green.

For this reason, Jade Pothos, which naturally has solid green foliage, is particularly suitable for lower-light locations. Pothos leaves can also become smaller when the plant does not receive enough bright light.

Neon Pothos, known for its vivid chartreuse-colored foliage, generally performs best under moderate to high light. Regardless of variety, avoid placing Pothos directly in hot, intense sunlight. Strong sun can scorch the foliage quickly, particularly when the leaves are pressed against a hot window.

High-light conditions can work well, but if your plant is near a south- or west-facing window, keep it at least 8 to 10 feet away from the glass. Bright indirect light is suitable.

When light reaches the plant primarily from one direction, rotate the container from time to time. The foliage naturally bends toward its light source, so occasional rotation helps promote more even growth.

During winter, Pothos generally needs less frequent watering. Fertilization and pruning should also be reduced or paused, and moving the plant to a brighter location may be beneficial if natural light levels become low.

Pothos Watering

I prefer to water my Pothos thoroughly once the potting mix has become almost completely dry.

In my warm and sunny home in Tucson, Arizona, I generally water about once every six to seven days during the warmer months. In winter, I extend the interval to approximately every nine to fourteen days.

Your own watering routine will depend on several factors, including the temperature and humidity of your home, the type of potting mix being used, and the size and material of the container.

Pothos can develop root rot when kept excessively wet, so allowing the plant to become somewhat dry is safer than keeping the soil constantly saturated. During colder months, watering should be reduced because the plant usually grows more slowly and uses less water.

Containers must have drainage openings in the bottom so excess moisture can escape freely. If your pot sits inside a saucer, check it after watering and remove accumulated water rather than allowing the roots to remain submerged.

Temperature

Temperature is generally not a difficult part of Pothos care because these plants can tolerate a relatively broad range of indoor temperatures.

If the conditions inside your home are comfortable for you, they will usually be suitable for your Pothos as well.

However, keep the plant away from cold drafts as well as heating and air-conditioning vents. Sudden temperature changes or direct exposure to hot or cold airflow can stress the plant.

Humidity

Pothos are tropical plants that naturally grow in areas with relatively high humidity. Even so, they usually adapt surprisingly well to the lower humidity commonly found inside homes.

If you occasionally notice brown tips developing on the leaves, dry indoor air may be one possible cause. Mildly dry conditions are generally tolerated, but providing somewhat higher humidity can make tropical houseplants more comfortable.

Pothos Fertilizing

Spring and summer are generally the most appropriate seasons for fertilizing Pothos. In temperate climates, early fall can also be a suitable time to provide nutrients.

In Tucson, where the growing season lasts from approximately mid-February through October, I fertilize my tropical plants seven times throughout the growing season. The products I use include Maxsea or Sea Grow, Grow Big, and Liquid Kelp.

I alternate between these granular and liquid fertilizers rather than combining them in the same application.

Pothos are not demanding plants, and they do not require frequent feeding. Applying fertilizer too often can cause more problems than it solves. Depending on your climate and growing conditions, fertilizing indoor Pothos two or three times per year may be sufficient.

Whatever plant food you choose, never exceed the dosage recommended on the package. Excess fertilizer can cause salts to accumulate in the potting mix, potentially burning the roots. When excessive fertilization is combined with frequent applications, brown spots may eventually appear on the leaves.

Avoid feeding a houseplant that is under stress, whether the potting mix is completely dry or excessively saturated. I also stop fertilizing my houseplants during late fall and winter because this is generally their least active growing period.

Soil for Pothos

Pothos are quite adaptable when it comes to potting mix. I prefer using a high-quality potting soil that is peat-based, nutrient-rich, and capable of draining well.

Potting soil is specifically formulated for container plants and should not be confused with garden soil. Garden soil is generally too dense and heavy for growing houseplants in containers.

When purchasing a commercial mix, check the packaging to make sure it is intended for indoor or houseplant use.

The potting soils I alternate between include Ocean Forest and Happy Frog. I also incorporate a few additional amendments when planting. The resulting mixture provides a balance of nutrition, moisture retention, and drainage.

Repotting and Transplanting

Repotting Pothos is relatively straightforward, and spring and summer are usually the best times to perform the job. In warmer climates, early fall can also be suitable.

I generally move the plant up by one container size. For example, a Pothos growing in a 4-inch pot can usually be moved into a 6-inch pot.

If a large 6-inch Pothos has become extremely root-bound, however, moving it directly into a 10-inch container may be appropriate.

Plants with very long trailing stems can be somewhat difficult to handle during repotting. Gently tying the vines together or securing them temporarily can keep them out of the way and prevent them from becoming tangled.

Pothos can grow successfully in many different types of containers. I have grown them in plastic pots as well as planted them directly in terra cotta. Fiberglass, resin, and ceramic containers are also suitable choices.

Ideally, the container should have at least one drainage hole in the bottom. This allows excess water to escape and prevents moisture from accumulating around the roots.

I generally repot my Pothos about once every five years to refresh the growing medium. However, if roots begin emerging through the drainage holes, that is a clear indication that the plant may need to be repotted sooner.

I repotted one of my Pothos several years ago, and the process is fairly simple when the plant is handled carefully. Fresh potting mix and an appropriately sized container can give an established Pothos a renewed growing environment.